Milan Fashion Week FW25: Day 1 at PFD
Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week FW25 opened with a rebellious energy as guests at the PFD show leaned into a nostalgic yet forward-thinking sartorial language. The front row was a study in contrasts, merging 80s and 90s influences with contemporary twists, and underscoring a playful irreverence for traditional fashion codes.
The spotlight was on accessories: beanies dripping with pearls, perched jauntily atop slicked-back hair, seamlessly blended high glamour with streetwise grit. These were paired with bomber jackets seemingly plucked from Eddie Murphy’s 80s stand-up wardrobe but reimagined with extravagant embellishments, including oversized pearl necklaces and crucifixes—a nod to vintage decadence with a subversive edge.
Thom Browne devotees were out in full force, rocking full tailored suits that clashed beautifully with biker gloves by Ham and Mer. Elsewhere, furry puffers met their match in plaid puffy trousers and furry boots, a tactile explosion that flirted with the absurd yet remained firmly rooted in luxury.
Faux fur dominated the runway and the audience, with oversized coats paying homage to 90s hip-hop culture, complete with low-slung chains and boxy silhouettes. Puffy plaid raincoats and black bomber jackets conjured a gritty urban aesthetic, while tank tops and low-rise baggy jeans harkened back to 90s streetwear—brought into the present with the addition of midriff-baring cardigans.
The crowd also leaned into the avant-garde: airplane seat belts doubling as belts, Soviet-era-inspired furry hats, and cropped biker tops pushed the boundaries of practicality and imagination. Military patterns were everywhere, from camouflage to furry and denim puffers, adding a rugged, utilitarian flair to the otherwise decadent scene.
A standout statement was the unexpected presence of bandaids—on faces, hats, and as accessories—transforming a humble item into a symbol of raw vulnerability.
PFD’s show wasn’t just about the garments; it was a cultural time capsule, blending decades and ideologies into a bold, chaotic harmony. As the week unfolds, Milan promises more surprises, but Day 1 set the tone: nostalgic yet daring, chaotic yet cohesive.
Written by Oona Chanel
Photography by Luis Riese
