Milan Fashion Week Round Up
This season, Italian fashion was in all its glory during MFW; from surprise collaborations towards the end of the week to Dua Lipa walking the Versace runway, we were in for a treat. In an industry that’s often portrayed to be competitive and fixed on their old ways, some brands begged to differ. Thanks to female-led designers, we saw a side to fashion that we don’t get to see often: Miuccia Prada with the help of Raf Simons embraced technology in its purest form, and Silvia Venturini Fendi, gave the reigns to her brand to Donatella Versace.
They say, to break the rules, you must first master them, and who better to govern a new way of doing things than these fashion legends?!
If we could use two words to describe Miuccia and Raf’s first physical show since they announced their partnership, it would be futuristic and pragmatic. Futuristic as they transported us into the future; by presenting their SS ‘22 collection simultaneously in both Milan and Shanghai. Pragmatic was in the way of the accessories and the clothes that could easily transition from day to night. We loved the nude oversized cotton dress jacket with wide collars with strings that served as closure, especially the ones worn over the black mini satin skirts. The transition from spring to summer was also clear through the mix of materials and textures.
This collection had a hue of poignant colors with the two-piece olive set, clear yellow shoes, brown belts, and orange shoes. As always, the Prada woman loves to embrace both her masculine and feminine side, and the manly blazer paired with the mini skirt showcased it beautifully!
Emerging from a large blue entryway with smoke and to the beat of a distant sound and music that can only be described as suspense, Del Core’s first look set the tone for the entire collection. A short high neck dress in a deep brown with side embellishment in the same fabric that resembled petals was paired with knee-high boots in beige. The young designer has an eye for color and proportions, as his placement of ruffles and embroidery was always flattering, but most of all, it was the smallest details such as the combination of the short yellow tassels on the slip dress that kept the collection interesting.
Salient was the off-white long-sleeve chiffon dress that cascaded into a bright yellow, almost as if it was a blooming flower, from top to bottom as the neckline was made of the juxtaposition of precisely cut chiffon fabric. Daniel Del Core is a young designer, who we’re certain is a force to be reckoned with in the industry. Every look and every minute of the collection was intentional and purposeful.
A vivid storyteller and image-maker, Antonio Marras has never shied away from creating according to his own set of rules and ultimately letting the clothes speak for themselves. Like
many of his fellow creative directors, Marras opted for a digital presentation as a visual film to showcase his co-ed spring collection. The film narrated in Italian, started by what is usually the end of a show, as a bride walked through a deserted, burned forest, on ashes with cowboy boots as we could hear church bells right after the narrator spoke of the suffering and a wounded heart. Similar to the poet’s voice vulnerability, the clothes were just as fragile. Marras has a beautiful way of bridging past trends and current ones, all while making it his own. And because of it, we can already picture the linen shirt-dresses with lace embroidery being appealing to different age groups of women.
As all art forms, Marras Spring 22 collection is subject to interpretation. For us, the message was crystal clear as through the church bells, alarm, and helicopter sounds, the designer wanted to highlight the effects of climate change on our planet. Time is ticking for mother nature, and she is in fact bleeding and suffering just like the narrator.
For their Spring/Summer collection Italian designers took inspiration from the season that promises new beginnings. Vintage floral prints made a comeback, while some designers rested on the simplicity of satin items that can go a long way if styled correctly. The spirit of togetherness and harmony is also something that came through strongly whether it was by literal collaborations or through storytelling.