October 14, 2021
London Fashion Week Round Up
The fashion industry can finally rejoice: fashion month kicked off with a bang thanks to New York and London fashion week was back full force, with designers championing the new normal with both digital and physical shows. This season, London-based designers brought a sense of curiosity, chicness, and relatability to their clothes, whether it was on the runway or stories told through short films.
PREEN by Thornton Bregazzi
Entitled STATIC, designers Justin and Thea flawlessly express, through their SS 22 collection, in a short video what it feels like to be back to the reality we were once accustomed to. It’s a glitch in the system, but “make it fashion” is what we all feel… as the first looks show up on the screen as if the models were coming down from outer space. Landing on earth with colorful asymmetrical clothes, black leather bra on top of chiffon dresses. It’s a combination of hard meets soft, such as the black leather skirt paired with the baby blue floral top; a mix of patterns and prints that would normally not go together but somehow make a beautiful patchwork of color and textures. The pleated orange short dress with a white high collar and puffy sleeves is a favorite. The story was beautifully told thanks to the styling, as some ruffled visors were seen with a polka dot see-through dress and high heel leather sandals in various colors.
Taking notes from her rich and extensive archive, Vivienne Westwood takes us back to the 80s with a sense of freedom, punk, minis, and pearls. Needless to say that: SEX IS BACK! This spring/summer collection is a no-rules zone set in a Caribbean maritime atmosphere, leaving us with the impression that the inspiration came from a feeling of being stranded on an island. Staying true to the brand’s DNA, all 59 looks were made of repurposed fabrics, and in a sustainable, conscious way. The reminiscent corset-like top and fitted silhouettes we all love made a comeback in white dresses, and the brown tank top, with the sexy cutout. Ropes served both as props but also as prints on sweaters and pants. As always, tartan and houndstooth were the heart and stars of the collection, but what stood out the most were the handbags made of gingham in both green and blue. The beanie and tote bag with the inscription “CHAOS POINT” gave the collection a modern and fun feel.
In a short cinematographic film, shot at what resembled at first glance a maze garden; Wickstead delivers an elevated English Country living collection with striking neutral monotone sets despite their classic silhouette, specifically the cape-like coats which expressed elegance at its finest. As we go through the collection, we get a sense of nostalgia as our favorite season just ended, but also excitement for what we’ll be wearing in the summer of 2022. With the models wearing little to no makeup, the neon colors in orange and green were all the models needed for an illuminated, glowy allure. A little black dress, as we know, can go a long way, and the cocktail waist-fitted dresses did just that! The abstract prints, placed on the snowy white dress, were captivating, especially when the looks were presented with a mix of the same pattern but in a distinct blue and orange. We loved the versatility of the pink crepe dress and the pairing of the vintage floral print with accent colors of black and orange. The green ensemble, and also the last look of this collection, is regal and ultimately transported us right back to the 50s, an era synonymous with opulence and grace.
Through the sound of violins, surrounded by high pillars in a roman setting at the British Museum, Erdem was all about the classics and rhinestones. Think white button-down shirt paired with pleated midi-skirts, deep olive trench coats with oxford shoes, gowns, and opera gloves. This collection was a take on the everlasting shapes of the 50s and Victorian-style collars and peplum bottoms, with a twist. The unexpected but pleasant surprise: the looks of the flat circled hat with matching vintage floral dresses in pastel colors. It was all about the smallest details, such as the pearls as finishing touches on the leather gloves, and the pending ribbons on puffy sleeves. This collection is feminine and timeless, as the designer turned the simplest of fabrics into eye-catching looks. The transition from daywear to nightwear was seamless as the collection progressed from cotton to sequins, with pendant pearl earrings that weren’t identical. This season, the Erdem woman is reinventing herself through staple pieces, all while breaking some fashion rules.
Feminine but tailored, elegant but bold results from David Beckham being your muse. For her Spring Summer 22 collection, Victoria Beckham ventured a little deeper into menswear-inspired clothing, as she took inspiration from her husband’s attire while on vacation. Like all sumptuous women, the Victoria Beckham woman wants to achieve looks that appear as if she hasn’t tried too hard. With bright colors, and metallic leather skirts and boots in orange and blue, the British designer made statements with the sleekest lines, backless dresses, that immediately transport you back to summer and Mediterranean getaways. Effortless, stylish clothes were the aim of this collection, and that she achieved! One can only presume that the slip silk dresses in green and baby blue will be the IT items of the season.
The designers of London fashion week were all about reinterpreting the classics with a trendy approach to clothes, all done through colors and creative choice of fabrics, and the mix of vintage floral prints and monotone looks. Dropped waist silhouettes seem to be the new direction we’re heading towards, and this season is all about maintaining a fresh face with a dewy complexion through no-makeup, makeup looks, and sleek hairstyles.
– Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre