ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
In recent years, two topics have been heavily discussed in fashion: inclusivity and sustainability. However, the individuals concerned by those subjects have often pinpointed that representation is not just about having one model from different races on the runway but about including everyone; and being eco-friendly shouldn’t be seen as a trend since, if done correctly, it can make a real difference for our planet. For his Spring/Summer 2022 runway show, Andreas Kronthaler had inclusivity at the forefront of his collection, normalizing older women wearing mini dresses, and men of the same age group wearing pencil skirts, all while being confident. For the London-based designer, being sustainable is not only about selecting vintage fabrics but it’s also about turning objects into accessories or using past silhouettes in a modern way. And one could argue that it’s exactly what fashion is all about, experimenting with materials and items that you already have and turning them into something new.
As we all know, the Vivienne Westwood woman doesn’t fit in a box. She’s just as much into punk when she wears her colorful tartan ensemble with leopard boots; as she is into glamour when she wears a strapless blue latex gown or the gold midi skirt paired with the baby blue corset top. The men of this collection are equally adventurous, as some wore printed skirts with blazers, paired with yellow socks and red oxfords. While others were seen wearing fishnets over hoodies, or the same fabric under a sheer black polo dress with a delicate purple floral scarf around the neck. Perhaps what stood out the most in this collection was the ease with which the clothes were interchangeable and no longer belonged to a certain category. We loved seeing women wearing various types of men’s boxer shorts in both cotton and silk with formal blazers. The same idea was applied for men, with the high-waisted silver dress with the matching turban and boots, or the yellow mini skirt in latex paired with the same color sweater, high heel silver boots, and colorful turban.
This season the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood collection was about versatility and range. Outfits created for every and any occasion, such as cocktail dresses with separate black sequin tuxedo collars. Headpieces like baseball caps, flower fascinators with veils, and ornaments that served as body chains worn over swimsuits, were the accessories that showcased how one can truly repurpose house items. The star item of the collection was, however, the satin thigh-high boots that were held together by being attached at the neck. One thing we can always expect from Andreas, and that’s almost a guarantee, every collection is definitely texture, like the pairing of the asymmetrical latex skirt with the silk top in the opening look. And most of all, through styling, the designer delivers finishings we can’t get anywhere else, such as the neon socks worn under the gladiator heels, the pearl ornaments on the sunglasses, and finally the stuffed doll attached to the towel head wrap on one model. Besides being a multifaceted show, this collection was also quirky, fun, and full of options even for those looking to have a reduced closet.