Spring 2021 Ready to Wear
Pictures by Tomo Koizumi
FROM THE ALTER TO THE DANCE FLOOR
Tomo Koizumi’s Signature Organza Explosions Makes Their Bridal Debut
Tomo Koizumi exploded into the fashion world last year with an all-out extravaganza of a debut show held at the Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store. The Japanese designer, who had previously been on the radar of fashion forecaster Lady Gaga, was welcomed into the international platform of New York Fashion Week with open arms as A-list models, editors, and celebrities ooh-ed and ahh-ed over his vibrant, colorful, ruffled bursts of dresses, infusing a sense of wonder and joy into an industry that, at times, has been known to take itself very seriously. As a made-to-order designer, Koizumi’s day to day business wasn’t harmed too much by the pandemic, in fact, the designer took his 6-month lockdown in Tokyo as a chance to grow and experiment with different facets of his craft, which led to his debut bridal collection this season.
Presented in a look-book during New York Fashion Week, Koizumi began his collection showing off the fruits of a collaboration with Japanese bridal atelier Treat Maison. The result is a glorious mix of voluminous bridal white gowns, all treated with Koizumi’s signature ruffle technique, some shown with pastel blue and pink layers around the train and bust of the gown, giving the appearance of saccharine sweet wedding cake toppers, while others had more traditional Japanese details, including an awe-inspiring dress topped by a veil, trimmed in matching white ruffles that covered half of the dress and would surely have been a showstopper on a live runway. The result was a surprisingly wearable first foray into bridal for the designer, all the while maintaining his strong design esthetic.
The second half of the collection was a series of designs photographed outside at night. Micro-mini skirts, crop tops, and even a bathing suit were shown in a kaleidoscope of rainbow colors and ruffles. These were a tiptoe into more commercial pieces coming off the hype of the dizzying volume of the dresses and separates he has previously shown. This is a designer who is evolving with his success, testing his limits, and listening to his clientele. In a season that is begging for escapism and joy, Koizumi consistently provides just that.
Written by Elizabeth Kramsky