Highly awaited for, the beloved goth and avant-garde designer returned to the city of light for his first in-person show since Covid, and the excitement was palpable. In true Rick Owens fashion, the designer celebrated this reunion with a hard beat sound and synchronized smoke that came out of black boxes that were aligned in the middle of the Palais de Tokyo fountain. That alone showcased his essence, in a nutshell. The Rick Owens woman is the type who walks to the beat of her own drums with confidence and poise. So who better to illustrate the goth mysticism that she is, besides the designer’s wife and muse, Michele Lamy. The fashion legend opened the show with her signature look, dark smokey eye, thigh-high gladiator sandals with transparent heels that could kill!
In true Rick Owens silhouette, we saw Lamy wearing a soft cotton sleeveless dress with the finishing touch of a round leather fabric enveloping her waist. The looks that followed were equally edgy and eccentric, but the head-turner was the sleek black gown with a collar high enough that it covered the model’s mouth. That dress was see-through and as the sunlight hit the model, the lines of a black one-piece cutout bathing suit were visible. Leather coats and draping are what we can always expect from Rick Owens, but this season it was the form-fitting dresses, decolletage, and color blocking that truly caught our attention. The subtle pop of colors made the collection particularly refreshing, with the transparent hoodie with bell sleeves that faded into a golden yellow color, on top of a pink bubblegum one-piece swimsuit and matching shorts. That look was styled with white thigh-high sandals and shield sunglasses. That dégradé effect was seen throughout the collection, such as the crepe bumper jacket that went from off-white to beige and brown, coupled with a fossil grey skirt. The same look was achieved in white and gold, then in a monochrome burnt orange version, which we consider being the summer editions of the previous ensemble. We loved seeing Owens take on the opera gloves, as one girl wore a pair that was open and non-fitted at the top, with a black matte strapless dress, with a triangular cutout, torso level.
Rick Owens is as avant-garde as it gets, and that was evident, with the girls standing on top of the building throwing dried leaves on the models, while some attire resembled outfits that were straight out of the Matrix; notably, because the Parisian wind was in their favor. Although the splash of color was unexpected, it worked beautifully, especially when paired with neutrals like the sheer dark lavender dress with the side cutout. All those combined brought drama and sex appeal to the collection. This season, the Rick Owens woman is nothing but synonymous with strength and is definitely magnetic to the core.
– Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre