Spring 2021 Ready to Wear
Pictures by Moschino
THE PUPPET MASTER’S THEATER
Jeremy Scott Thinks Outside the Box and Wins Fashion Month
While most designers lamented the restrictions and adjustments placed upon them this fashion month: travel restrictions, quarantine, limited group size, digital collections, etc, Moschino Creative Director Jeremy Scott presented a collection so full of joy and whimsy, it actually had us thanking current limitations for inspiring this spectacle and elevating the fashion show experience beyond our imaginations. Inspired by the Théâtre de la Mode, a touring exhibit of miniature mannequins, dressed in couture by Paris’ premiere fashion designers as a way to raise funds in the aftermath of World War II, Scott placed a call to the Santa’s Workshop of miniatures, Jim Henson’s Creature Shop. The result was a collection of 30-inch puppets on strings, crafted to look like actual models that would have been walking Scott’s runway, as well as an audience of puppets filled with the likes of Anna Wintour, Edward Enninful, and Anna Dello Russo just to name a few. Scott designed a 40 piece collection that was scaled down to exact replicas to fit the marionettes.
Inspired by the concept of couture, and the inner workings of such garments, Moschino’s Spring 2021 collection, although miniature, was powerful. For a runway that usually delivers over-the-top editorial ensembles (multi-tiered Marie Antionette cake dress, anyone?), this season felt humble, wearable, and feminine, with a few dashes of Moschino flare. Garments were shown in various stages of completion with exposed zippers, corset boning, raw hems, and unfinished pockets, showing the process of creation that goes into couture. There were plenty of lady-like knee-length skirts and dresses in gold brocade, swinging ’40s cocktail dresses with voluminous tulle, bubblegum pink creations that were simultaneous dated in their structure, yet modern with their black lace corset accents. A pink ruffled ballgown was paired with a cropped red moto leather jacket with short sleeves, and finally, the Moschino bride closed the show in a high/low white dress with floral appliqués and a miniature bouquet. A Jeremy Scott puppet followed, taking a final bow.
Fashion constantly strives to entertain, to break the mold, and to have that “ah-ha” moment. Scott harnessed the desire to spark joy and gifted it to the public with a bow on top. In a season where other designers are scaling back and downsizing, Scott did both with a budget larger than most live fashion shows, and not only presented a stunning collection, he delighted us at a time when a few moments of pure whimsey is a priceless commodity.
Written by Elizabeth Kramsky