Fall/Winter 2021 Ready to Wear
Pictures by Marni
ROMANCE IN FULL BLOOM
Marni Revels in the Romance of Crafting for Fall and Winter
Romance was on the mind of Marni creative director Francesco Risso as he brought his Fall Winter 2021 collection to fruition, showing digitally during Milan Fashion Week. Ironically, it was the weight of the digital burnout from the past year that pushed Risso in a more authentic design direction, rejecting the zoom-friendly digital marketplace of fast paced videos and impersonal flashes of looks for a much slower, more natural process, resulting in a look book of overexposed images shot in Risso’s own Milan apartment. A corresponding video was released of the collection, set to the sultry sound of Mykki Blanco’s voice, taking the viewer through a languid day of meals centered around the collection.
In certain collections, the process of creation hijacks the actual pieces, an occurrence that easily could have been the case here for Marni, however the clothes truly have a life of their own, complete with riveting stories to tell. Risso began with a black color palette, all hand dyed, and proceeded rather audaciously to embellish certain pieces with live flowers, leaving them in the sun to let nature take its course. The result is a series of crafted prints that make up a black trench, a maxi dress, and a corseted off the shoulder dress (worn with pointed toe tennis shoes). The canvas is black but the flower prints appear in vibrant blues, purple and red, creating quite a unique template for design. The hand dying extended deeper into the collection, as it was clearly a source of inspiration, as well as therapy, for Risso and his design team. Bright splotches of primary colors were dripping down dresses, skirts, puffers and menswear shirts, a technique that could have easily veered into chaotic territory, but Risso’s loose, easy designs carried the effect with grace. Speaking of puffers, they were large and in charge, contrasting with the ladylike dresses and tailored pieces. Fluffy, oversized coats were lined with fuzzy necks and paired with slouchy elbow gloves. Layers of puffer were tailored around the bodies to create a wrap shape, hugging across the front of the models like mismatched coats patched together. Puffer tunics hung from three models, dangling just around the knees like wearable sleeping bags, one black and white option was elegantly paired with a matching dress and heels, cinched by the model’s own arms clutching a black bag. Might a Moncler Genius collaboration come next??
Fueled by the fatigue of quarantine, and the ever growing dismay of digital presentations, Francesco Risso found himself exploring new chapters of his own creativity, calling on techniques that returned him to a simpler, more honest way to appreciate fashion. Risso is a master of print so it is no surprise that, as a true creative, he was able to do something completely unique and by hand, so that no two pieces can ever be exactly the same. The term “fast fashion” does not live in this stratosphere. This collection for Marni is a celebration of life and romance, creativity and honest technique, of slowing down the pace in the midst of a mind blowing digital environment to remember an actual craft and the beautiful clothes that can be discovered in one’s imagination.
Written by Elizabeth Kramsky