Spring 2021 Ready to Wear
Pictures by Giambattista Valli
AN INTIMATE TOUCH
Giambattista Valli Scales Back for Spring
Widely known for his frothy, oversized tulle extravaganzas worn by the likes of Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez, Giambattista Valli found himself at a crossroads brought on by the pandemic. With no red carpets or premieres, the world no longer needed his most popular offering, so what was a designer to do? Get in touch with his customer base, outside of celebrities, and discover that intimate, personal dressing is the desire du jour. Staying closer to home does not mean a lack of style or effort, but it does mean that ball gowns off the table this season.
What Valli gave us instead more than made up for the missing cupcake dresses. Presented via digital short, models walked the collection against a stark white backdrop with the screen spliced to include footage of Valli’s own nature inspiration, taken while on holiday on the Italian coast. The collection is heavily influenced by vibrant, delicate flowers, which appear as prints on several looks, as well as deep, tropical greens and rugged coastline. Evelina Lauren opened the show in a white micro mini suit set with cropped jacket sleeves and a hemline just shy of being indecent. Models wore bows in their hair and with heavily lined black eyes. This is the dichotomy of the Valli girl: sweetly innocent with a touch of naughty, the scales of which tip back and forth from look to look. Black sequined shorts came next belted with the designer’s new logo crest, a V surrounded by swirling Gs, inspired by the iron gates of Italian homes. Branding played a large part in this scaled-down collection, as luxury labels are scrambling to increase profits amidst economic turmoil. Aside from the belts, there were canvas totes, t-shirts, and hats all embossed with various forms of Giambattista Valli logos.
Dresses were made of sweet chiffon, with touches of intimate lace and dazzling sequins. On her second walk, Lauren appeared in a black, off the shoulder sheath which perfectly embodied the understated elegance required for current evening wear wardrobes. There were, of course, several ultra-feminine offerings as well, such as a pastel pink draped mini dress on Valerie Scherzinger, lined in ruffles; and a delicately innocent empire waist dress in all white on Ajok Madel. There was no lack of beautiful dresses, most appropriate for both day and night, as well as a few pants thrown in the mix, shown in khaki and checks.
Turns out, a scaled-back Valli collection produced some of the most wanderlust-inducing, feminine pieces of the season. Each dress made us dream of warm Italian nights, lingering outdoor dinner parties, and a more casual lifestyle. As eye-catching as Valli’s oversized tulle creations have been year to year, we were happy to have a break and relish the softer, more intimate side of the designer.
Written by Elizabeth Kramsky