A vivid storyteller and image-maker, Antonio Marras has never shied away from creating according to his own set of rules and ultimately letting the clothes speak for themselves. Like many of his fellow creative directors, Marras opted for a digital presentation as a visual film to showcase his co-ed spring collection. Known for his rustic aesthetic and love for the countryside, the Sardinian designer presented a collection that was full of texture, patterns, and colors. A love letter to nature and his native land, which was devastated by the fires last July. The film narrated in Italian, started by what is usually the end of a show, as a bride walked through a deserted, burned forest, on ashes with cowboy boots as we could hear church bells right after the narrator spoke of the suffering and a wounded heart. Similar to the poet’s voice vulnerability, the clothes were just as fragile. Transparent organza skirts, swiss dot fabrics, were paired with embroidered cotton vests and wool sweaters. Motifs were formed through a patchwork of appliqués of lace over cotton shirts for both men and women. Unexpected garments like green military shorts and jackets were seen, but with added cheetah prints and camouflage. It seemed as if the characters of this film were on a mission.
Marras has a beautiful way of bridging the past trends and current ones, all while making it his own. And because of it, we can already picture the linen shirt-dresses with lace embroidery being appealing to different age groups of women. We believe the white cotton dress with the side placement prints of roses will have the same affect. And it was as thrilling to see men wearing layers of cotton shirts over boxer shorts in tartan. However, the abstract black and white drawing of a man on a white poplin shirt with sided pleats paired with black palazzo pants was by far the most intriguing look. A beautiful picture was painted towards the end of the film, as we got a visual of what tailored, embroidered unisex clothing would like, as the models were seen on top of the mountains wearing nude tones of oversized cotton and guipure shirts.
As all art forms, Marras Spring 22 collection is subject to interpretation. For us, the message was crystal clear as through the church bells, alarm, and helicopter sounds, the designer wanted to highlight the effects of climate change on our planet. Time is ticking for mother nature, and she is in fact bleeding and suffering just like the narrator.
– Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre