Couture FW 2020
Photos by Karim Sadli and Inez and Vinoodh / Alexandre Vauthier
From Paris to the Hamptons
A festive trip with Alexandre Vauthier
The re-opening of cities, and what seems to be a glimpse of normalcy, calls for a celebration! At least that’s how Alexandre Vauthier expresses it through his Fall/Winter 2020 couture collection. Full of vibrant, joyous colors, effortless shapes, the French designer takes us through an unusual trip from Paris to the Hamptons, passing by the 16th arrondissement of the French city to the peaceful backyards and shores of the American town. It all starts with black structured high-waist harem pants, paired with a black partial transparent spaghetti straps top, a green and brown striped bomber jacket styled with black rectangle sunglasses, a fascinator, and silk purple ankle boots. Knowing the Alexandre Vauthier woman, we knew we were in for a ride as she’s usually light-hearted and fun, but we were uncertain of the outcome.
Shot unexpectedly in these two different locations; there seems to be an outfit for every occasion, ambiance, and frame of mind. We’re taken through different styles of kitchens and living rooms, assuming that some are in a chic, minimal Parisian apartment, and the other in a more electrifying house or at the beach in the Hamptons. The Alexandre Vauthier woman seems to enjoy these two styles equally, when she’s seen wearing straight-leg pants with a trench coat and fascinator in the streets of Paris, to the green chiffon dress with feathered hem in her out of the city accommodation. The collection is a mix of neutral tones such as black, gold, emerald green, and dynamic colors: fuchsia, coral pink, and mint green. The silhouette, however, is more complex to define as it goes from extreme tailoring of the Victorian black padded jackets paired with bike shorts to a shapeless feather dress-coat and a ruffled X-line mini-dress.
As much as we would like to think the designer envisioned dressing her up according to the climate that she’s in, some pieces in this collection seem to belong to two different women of different age groups that have different tastes. The styling might be where things missed the mark for us, as the make-up for most of the looks was natural, and for others, there’s an excessive amount of maquillage. The model wearing the transparent mesh dress with stone and gold embroidery had highlights in her T-zone, dark eyeliner, burnt-orange blush on the cheeks, and baby pink all around the eyes, reaching her forehead, which was a little confusing, making the overall outfit look like an unfinished costume. Despite the inconsistency in the styling and flow of silhouette, some looks were fashionable and timeless like the high-waist long green satin skirt, paired with the strapless black top coupled with the fuchsia sandal with the rose ornament, or the metallic asymmetrical purple cocktail dress paired with the pink satin boots with side bows. Looking at the whole collection; The intention of the house might have been to introduce us to different Vauthier women taken by a city girl who goes to the countryside, but the entire styling of the collection left us a little puzzled.
By Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre